You say you tried calling things uncached, did you try this?
Yes.
Articles add-on is set tu use template "StandardPageTemplate". In this template I call [[!$layout.content]] chunk. The chunk displays few thing like page title and [[!*content]] - which is a article list content.
In article content I'm using [[!+articles]] to display the list.
Finnaly in article row template I'm using [[!+tv.HitsPage]]. I've put ! in all calls from root to the leaf, but tv value is still cached somewhere. Even refreshing browser with clear cache.
Is the page itself cached?
Take a look at the cached version of the resource in core/cache/resource/web/resources/. You may be able to see the TV value there.
Well, there is file 3.cache.php and a folder [3]. In this folder there are also two php files with random names and few folders 1,2,3... - I guess these are the pages of articles list. So in first folder I've checked files with random names, and there is view counter value inserted into php file, without any call.
It should really contain the tag if the tag is uncached. It's starting to sound like a bug.
I've temporarily set "Expiration Time for Partial Resource Cache" to few houres to make this counter refresh from time to time.